Trimming attachment for embroidery machines



July 13 1926; 1,592,498

} A. MISTRETTA' TBIIIING ATTACHMENT FOR smsaornzar ncamzs Filed Oct. 3. 1925 E3. 7 a wm Are/crab JYzIy/frrld I 33511 1 Mom Patented July 13,1926.

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ANTONIO MlfSTRETTA, OF NEW' YORK, N. Y.

TRIMMING ArrAcnMnivr non EMBROIDERY MACHINES.

Application filed October This invention relates to devices for stitchlug and trimming by means of an embroidering or sewing machine and more particular- I ly to a special attachment permitting these two operations to be performedat the same time using a machine of the character mentioned. e

The invention more especially refers to improved devices for producing embroidery work of the kind known as applique embroidery or bonnaz' embroidery, whereby the cost of manufacture of these products is lower than thatfentailed by methods heretofore in use. p I I r The primary object of this invention is to provide a novel and improved arrangement for producing applique or bonn'az embroidery 'work whereby considerable saving of labor may be efiectedwhile at the sametime work ofa superior character may be produced. 7

Another object of this invention is to provide. a simple and practical attachment for embroidery machines ofthe types nowin use for aroducin a alicn embroider I wherec l, a

by the applique part propel-is trimmed by the machine at the sametime that the stitching operation takes place,while the fabric serving as a base for the-work is not affected'by the trimming operation. 7

i A further object is to provide a novel and improved attachment for embroidery nachines of the character mentioned, consisting of relativelyfew parts and adapted also to be used with minor modifications in connection with sewing machines, designed for ordinary and special purposes.

Other objects and advantages of the present ll'lVGllillOnWVlll more fully appear as the description proceeds'and, will be set forth and claimed in the appended claims. p

This invention being more particularly directed to improvements in the production of applique work, I will describe the same in connection with this Work although as stated, the invention is susceptible of being applied also for the trimming of ordinary stitched work.

By applique or bonnaz embroidery is meant that kind of' work where a piece or panel of decorative fabric is attached to a piece of fabric by means of a stitch'which.

follows a certain predetermined outline representing some objector flower or animal;

or other decorative motive or design.

After the panel or applique work proper a, 1925. Serial No. 60,263.

has-become attached to the base fabric by means of the stitching, the same is trimmed all around the stitching leaving a certain margin, so that dueto the "difference between the materials of which the panel part and the base fabric are respectively composed, many novel nd artistic effects may be O t n The work is generally. carried out in-two tllStiIlQi] steps, the first step being the stitching according to the design which may have been previously printed onthe panel part and the otherilstep being the trimming of the same which is generally performed by hand by means of ordinary scissors. This trimming operation is therefore, necessarily slow, due to the care which must be exerted, -1n keeping the width of the margin uniform,

and the result isnot always perfect being largely dependent upon theability of the operator to correctly gauge the width of the margin all around,

The stitching operation proper as stated,

which is determined by a design imprinted upon the materialmay obviously be carried out either by noving the material in relation to the needle of themachine orelse by causing the needle itself to follow the outline of the design. The latter is theprinciple more generally employed in machines used for this kind of work, which are accordingly made with the guide'casing of the needle bar movable and controllable by means of hand lever within convenient reach of the operator. 7

By skillful maneuvering of this hand lever, the operator causes the guide casing and therefore the needle itself to followthe outline of the design to be produced, at the same time also causing angular movements of the needle bar so that the needle mayalways be in the same position relative to the direction ofthe line of the design at any instant. In other words, assuming that a certain diametral cross line of the needle bar coincides at the round its own axis,-

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start with'the direction of the outline of the design, the needle bar is singularly, displaced as the direction of said outline changes so as to always maintain the same diametral' of the work at the same time that the stitching is done. without interfering with the fabric used as a base material. An embodiment of my invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which Fig. 1. is a side view in elevation of my improved trimming attachmentas applied to an embroidering machine;

Fig. 2, is a front view in elevation of the same;

Fig. 3, is same;

Fi at, is a detail plan sectional view through line et -4: of Fig. 2;

Fig. 5, is a detail plan sectional view through line 55 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 6, is a .side view in elevation of a device illustrating my method of producing applique embroidery and Fig. 7, is a plan view of a finished piece of applique embroidery illustrating the kind of work produced.

Referring to Fig. 7, 1O designates a piece of base material upon which is placed the material from which the applique part of panel 11 is produced. Said applique part is first stamped with an outline of the pattern desired, and this outline is followed by the a rear view in elevation of the needle producing the stitch 12, sewing together the base material and the applique part. The applique part is then trimmed around the outline of the stitching at 13, leaving a margin 1% of a uniform width all around. The outline of the design is followed by the needle by causing angular movements of the needle bar 16 about its own axis according to changes in the direction of the outline. In Figs. 1, 2, 8, the needle bar 16 is represented at the highestpoint of its reciprocating travel, at which point its lower end 17 still projects underneath the needle bar casing 15. The trimming attachment proper consists of a stationary blade 18, carried by a vertical stem 19 which is attached to a collar 20, loosely inserted over casing so that said collar is rotatable in relation to said casing but is prevented from moving in an axial direction by some suitable means. Accordingly, the needle bar is free to move up and down but due to this device its angular movements about its own axis will be transmitted to collar 20 as will be explained. The device furthermore, comprises a movable blade 21, hinged at 22 to the rear end of blade 18, and operated to close or open the shearing device thus produced, as the needle bar moves down or up.

To this end, an upwardly extending member 23, is secured to the lower portion 17 of the needle bar by means of a screw 2% or in any other suitable manner. Said member 23, becomes therefore one with the needle bar, and participates in. its reciprocating motion. The upper part 25' of said upward ly extending member is connected to the outer end 26 of movable blade 21 by means of a connection 27, so that the up and down motion of the needle bar will cause oscillating motion of said blade 21.

The upwardly extending member 23, has a vertical opening 28 through which passes stem 19 of the stationary blade, which is thus maintained'in its vertical position. At the same time it will be observed that the angular movements of the needle bar which are shared by member 23 connected thereto, will be transmitted by said member 23 to stem 19 which is guided there by, causing collar 20 to participate in said angular movements. The stationary blade is vertically adjustable in relation to the bed plate 29 of the machine, its upper part being provided with vertical slots as at 30, permitting the same to be fixed to part 20 by means of screws 81, so that the lower edge of blade 18 may be set at a greater or lesser distance from the top of the bed plate.

Said lower edge of the stationary blade is preferably parallel to the upper surface of the bed plate of the machine as shown. and the distance therebet-ween is adjusted to suit the thickness of the fabric which is used as a base in producing the applique work.

During the downward stroke of the needle bar, the movable blade 21 is caused to swing downwardly, cutting the margin of the 2.1) pliqu part in COILGSPOnClGDCB with the stitch and of a width which is predetermined by the distance (a), between the needle and the cutting edge of the blades.

In order to increase the QillCiG; cy of my device, I prefer to insure a sharp cutting action by attaching connection 27 to the needle bar by means of a tension spring 32. Said, spring 32' tends at all times to pull connection 27 inwardly, thus maintaining: blade 21 in close adherence to blade 18. this action being comparable to the side pressure of one blade against the other. which is exerted by hand. when using an ordinary pair of scissors.

The arrangement described, causes the cutting device to be operated simultaneousi with the needle and also causes the same to follow the angular displacement of the needle bar. Furthern'iore. by mounting the stationary blade so that the same is detached from the bed plate of the machine and vertically adjustable in relation thereto. it is possible to cut only one of the fabrics employed in producing the work while the other fabric is unaffected by it. This is particularly important in connection with applique work since. as. stated. only the ap liqu or panel part is trimmed while the base material is left untouched.

The method. as applied-to the production of applique work is clearly illustrated in llll) bed plate.

"the base material and the panel material and the panel material being inserted between thestationary blade and the movable blade.

It is therefore, obvious that the trimming of the applique part or panel takes place sunnitaneously with the stitching, and that the width of the margin will be maintained ,uniform throughout, 7

The arrangement shown where the pivotal connection between the two blades is somewhat to the rearof the needle, permits of their cutting or active portion being located exactly in correspondence with the needle itself, so that the cutting operation always takes place at a point located on a line at right angle to the direction of the stitching atthe point where the stitching takes place.

The device may be used practically unchanged in connection with an ordinary sewing machine where the needle bar guide casing is stationary and where the needle bar is capable of reciprocatin up and down motion but is not capable of angular dis placement. In this case the stitching is caused to follow the design by moving the fabric in relation to the needle instead of moving the needle in relation to the fabric. Therefore, it will be sufficient to cause reciprocating action of the movable blade, simultaneously with the reciprocating action of the needle bar in the manner outlined.

In a broad sense" however, the method it-,

self remains unchanged, its essential feature being the trimming of the applique part ndependentlyof the base material as and when the stitching operation is performed,

The width of the margin left around the stitch is usually always the same and therefore no means for adjusting the distance (a) between the needle and the cutting device are shown. It is obvious however, that suitable means for ad uSt-ing this distance operate the machine only inoperative in any suitablemanner, for in stance, by detaching connection 27 from the upwardly extendingmember and attachingit to the needle bar guide casing 15. shown in dotted lines at 25.,

Spring 32may also be detached at Urn same time. Blade 21 of the cutting attacln ment will thus remain stationary, no longer participating in the reciprocating motion of the. needle, bar. In the same or iii-any other suitable manner, the cutting device may also, of course, be rendered inoperative at any. time when it should be desired to for: stitchin and not for cutting.

However, the same object mayalso be tained merely by adjusting the height 0 the stationary blade from the bed 'ilateof the machine so that the fabric or fabrics operated on may easily beinserted there-' between. 1 I V I My invention may becarried into practice in ways differing from that shown without departing from the inventive idea; there fore, I reserve to myself the rightto design and build devices ofthe char cter mentioned'in any way or manner which may fairly enter into the scope of the appended claims. I 1

I claim:

1. In a machine of the character specified. thecombination with aneedle bar capable'of axial reciprocating motion and capable of angular movement about its own axis, and an axially, stationary member coaxial therewith and adapted to rotate therewith, of. a sta tionary blade mounted on saidmember, a

movable blade hinged thereto, and means associated with said needle bar causing oscillating motion of said movable blade.

2. In a inachineof the character specified, the, combination with a needle bar capable of axial reciprocating motion and capable of Y angular movement about its own axis, and an axially stationary member coaxial therewith and adapted to rotate therewitlu'of a stationary blade adjust-ably mounted on said member, a movable blade hinged thereto and means associated with said needle bar cans ing oscillatory motion of saidmovable blade.

3. In a machine of the character specified, the combination with a needle bar capable of axial reciprocating motion and capable of angular movement about its own axis, and an axially stationary member .coaxial' therewith and adapted to rotate therewith, of a stationary blade mounted on said member, a..movable blade hinged thereto andan articulated connection between said needle bar and said movable blade. i

l, In a machine of the character specified. the combination with a bed plate, a needle bar capable of reciprocating motion to and from said bed plate, and capable of angular movement about its own axis, and an axially CAL stationary member coaxial with said needle bar and adapted to rotate therewith, of a stationary blade mounted on said member so as to be adjustable to and from said bed plate, a movable blade hinged thereto, and an articulated connection between said needle bar and said movable blade.

5. In machine of the character specified. the combination with a needle bar capable of axial reciprocating motion and capable of angular movement about its own axis, and an axially stationary member coaxial with said needle bar and adapted to rotate then,- with, of a stationary blade mounted on said member, a movable blade hinged thereto at a point out of lateral alignment with the axis of said needle bar, and an articulated connection between said needle bar and said movable blade, causing sharing action oi. said two blades at a point in lateral alignment with the axis of said needle bar.

6. In a machine of the character specified, the combination with an axially reciprocat ing needle bar capable of angular movement about its own axis, an axially stationary member coaxial and adapted to be angularly moved therewith, and a stationary 11eedle bar guide casing, of a stationary blade mounted on said member, a movable blade hinged thereto, and an articulated connection between said needle bar and said movable blade.

T. In a machine of the character specified, the combination with a bed plate, a needle bar axially movable to and from said bed plate and capable of angular movement about its own axis, an axially stationary member coaxial and adapted to be angularly moved therewith, and a stationary needle bar guide casing, of a stationary blade, mounted on said member so as to be adjustable to and from said bed plate, a movable blade hinged thereto, and an articulated connection between said needle bar and said movable blade.

8. In a machine of the character specified, the combination with a needle bar capable of axial reciprocating motion and capable of angular movement about its own axis, and an axially stationary member coaxial and adapted to rotate therewith, of a stationary blade mounted on said member, a ZiiOYPtblQ blade hinged thereto, and means associated with said needle bar causing oscillating motion of said movable blade and transmittingangular movements of said needle bar about its own axis to said station ary blade and rotatable member.

9. In a machine of the character specified, the combinaation with a needle bar capable of axial reciprocating motion and capable of angular movements about its own axis, and an axially stationary member coaxial and adapted to rotate therewith, of a stationary blade depending from a stem mounted on said member, a movable blade hinged hereto, and a member inserted over said stem and associated with said needle bar causing oscillating motion of said movable blade and transmitting to said stem and rotatable nember angular DIOVGIDQIIES of said needle bar about its axis.

ANTONIO MISTRETTA. 

